June 17, 2011 Klamath, CA

June 17, 2011 Friday Klamath, CA

It’s 7 AM & I’m sitting in the clubhouse of the CG, looking out at the Klamath River.  There’s a heavy blanket of fog wetting the world; it has warmed up to 48 degrees.  I have a hot cup of coffee, compliments of my Jet Boil.    I slept in the tent & tested the temperature range of my down sleeping bag; after I put on almost everything I brought with me, including a hat, I slept well.  Around 5:30 I heard four hooves run by; not a frightening sound, more like – wow!  What was that?  But I can’t see out of my tent so I’m left to guessing – it wasn’t huge-sounding, so it was likely a deer rather than an elk.

And back to where I left off – after my day with the Shriners, I spent Tuesday night with Helen, the soon-to-be-90 year mother of a close friend.  Helen lives in the independent section of a facility that provides a wide range of services to the elderly. It was a fascinating juxtaposition – the elderly clinging tenaciously to life, as do the children at the Shriners Hospital.   With the old, it’s easy to trace the choices of attitude they’ve made in response to the cards dealt to them by life.  The young, though perhaps guarded, remain playful and hopeful.   It was shortly after 8 pm when I realized I’d left something on the bike.  I went down, retrieved the item, and found the doors had locked me out.  No one was in sight.  I had my cell phone but not Helen’s number.  I called her daughter in Tennessee for help, and as we talked the doors flew open.  There sat Helen on her electric scooter, grinning like a little kid, “I figured you couldn’t get back in, so I came down.  I used this thing, rather than my walker, so I could get here quick.”

I left Helen’s early on Wednesday and headed east on Hwy 50 to Lake Tahoe – a beautiful place I visited 15 years ago.  The traffic was heavy, and most of the roads were under major construction.  In spite of man’s efforts to the contrary, Lake Tahoe itself is beautiful.  From the lake I headed north on Hwy 89/70, aiming at Lassen Volcanic National Park.  The road construction intensified and I spent a lot of time waiting for a “follow me” truck.  I rode miles – literally – at 3 – 5 MPH, in what bikers call a slow race.  At one point, when I was tempted to whine about all the foot-dragging, I looked up and saw a mature bald eagle, looping above the trees.  The roads varied – twisties (30 MPH at most), & sweepers, with much change in altitude, as they followed fast moving rivers and climbed mountains.  The mountain sides were decorated with orange poppies, fir, and lilac.  Later the roads improved – new construction, so fresh asphalt with some scatterings of gravel, no shoulders or side markers, and no center line but those L shaped yellow markers.  I was having fun, very focused on the riding.  Each time I saw a warning about deer, I perked up even more.   And I was getting tired, for though fun, this wasn’t as easy as Interstate travel. I began to wonder why it was taking so long; quick glances at my GPS said she was still happy with my route, calling it Hwy 70.  That was OK because the road was 89/70. When I realized I was going SOUTH I knew something was wrong.  I pulled off of Hwy 70, with the GPS still goading me onward – and I was in Oroville, CA, only 68 miles north of Sacramento, but 302 miles on my bike and butt.  Good thing I’m not on a tight schedule!!!  After fussing myself, I stopped for the night at a campground with lots of mosquitoes.  Thursday morning, I enjoyed a huge breakfast and carefully headed north.  I stopped in Redding and bought myself a tank bag that holds a MAP.  I’ve always used one, but the gas tank on the Wing is made out of Tupperware, so the good, magnetic ones won’t adhere.  In the parking lot of the bike shop, I read the instructions that said simply, “remove the seat.”  Oh no.  So I stuffed the new “solution” to my being directionally challenged under a bungee cord and rode west on Hwy 299.  Hwy 299 follows the Trinity River and is magnificent.  There are many quaint villages and much unencumbered nature.  The poppies were yellow and orange; the river was often raging; the lilac was everywhere.  I stooped for a late lunch (fish tacos) and watched a biker peel over a multitude of layers, including a fleece pull over and leather jacket.  I wondered why, for it wasn’t that cold.  When I topped the last hill to face the Pacific, I quickly understood why all the clothes.  I was freezing!  But there it was – the Pacific crashing in, the heavy mist, building-sized boulders standing in the surf.  I am so grateful to be able to experience the diversity of our country!!

I rode north on Hwy 101 up through a section of the Redwood National Park.  Unlike the Sequoia NP, the people-energy of this park is gentle and quiet.  It is much easier to enjoy the magnificence of the gentle giants – the roads are good and sparsely traveled, you can stop at many places and be alone.  And the answer is – Redwoods & Sequoias are part of the same sub-family; the Redwoods are taller and the Sequoias larger around.  Incredibly, the Redwoods can grow a burl, something like an enormous wart or lump at the base.  The burl just sits there, until the mature tree begins to die.  Then the chemical brakes are released, and the burl begins to grow into a tree, using the life and roots of its dying clone.

I stopped Thursday night at a private campground on the Klamath River (it costs $35 to throw a tent on the ground in the Redwood NP!!!).  After setting up the tent, I decided to “remove the seat” from my bike.  Of course, nothing in my owner’s manual tells me how to do this small task.  After much time, I got out a Goldwing owners directory and called Roy in Redding, or somewhere.  He talked me though it – remove both handles and the backrest for starters.  After much longer than you could believe, I got the seat off, the tank bag installed, and the seat with back rest back where they belong – with no pieces left over.  It may have been easier to remove both tires & the engine.

This is good space for me.  I used my jet boil for the 1^st time this morning & sit with a cup of coffee.  My air card and cell phone don’t work here, so I’ll send this out later.

I have pictures to upload & will let you know when I get that done.  I’m surprised at how busy I stay – how much time it takes me each day to load up, ride, unpack, write, talk to people about the ride, etc.  Throw in several hours being lost, or reassembling my bike, & soon the day is over 😉